My top 5 in Northern Sardinia
As I am expanding my writing beyond Paris, my first post is about Northern Sardinia that I was fortunate to explore for a week at the end of May this year – perfect timing (beautiful weather, warm enough to go swimming + very few tourists) but wrong length of stay (10 days would have allowed us to incorporate a couple of days on the Maddalena islands & reach Capo Falcone). For this trip, here is my top 5 :
How people lived in a certain place at a certain time is a big thing for me so for sure I was going to check some of the “old stones” that are scattered around the island. The most famous of them are called “Nuraghe” a word that refers to both the civilisation that was thriving here between 1500 BC and 900 BC and the towers that are among the last remains of it. Built to relay information and protect villagers, about 7,000 of them have been unearthed and probably lots of them still remain buried to this day. We visited the site of Nuraghe La Prisgiona and the nearby Tomba dei Giganti di Coddu Vecchiu which is a burial corridor, also known in other parts of Europe as “allee couverte”. The tall stone with the small opening symbolically represents the passage to the world of the dead.
Supposedly the place for the rich & famous and very crowded – well, it was ours too for a few days and once we had left the resorts behind, it was just a beautiful place offering one spectacular inlet after another – come prepared: pack your bathing suit, a towel, a picnic, lots of water & sunscreen so that you can stop wherever you feel like a swim – unless you prefer a pre-dinner swim on your own deserted beach, which I enjoyed at Porto Rafael.
Romane – Pisan churches
Back to my « old stones » syndrome with a day of indulgence in exploring the countryside in search of Romane-Pisane churches. Hard to fathom that, when they were built in the XIIe siècle they were surrounded by a monastery or a village, when now they are sitting in the middle of nowhere but for one exception. Their sober style is balanced with a diversity of colours: black for Santa Maria del Regno in Ardara (don’t miss the spectacular retable), pink for Sant’ Antioco di Bisarcio, alternating black lava and white limestone at Santissima Trinita di Saccargia (little cafe next to it perfect for much-needed yummy panino!). Further South, Santa Maria di Bonaccattu is worth the detour.
Squeezed between the Temo river and its castle, Bosa was founded by the Phoenicians (current Lebanon), developed by the Malaspina family, taken over by the Aragon family then by the Spanish royal family before ending up being Italian – with so many turn of events, one can get as lost in Bosa’s history as in its narrow winding streets. Lined up with colourful buildings they will eventually take you to the castle, from where you can enjoy breathtaking views. On the other side of the river, the ancient tanneries now house restaurants which provide lunch with great views of Bosa.
Posada & Cala Liberotto
Another lovely colourful village, Posada, where we enjoyed lunch and spectacular views over the surrounding hills and farmland, located a short distance from my favourite beach of this trip: Cala Liberotto – as pictures are worth a 1,000 words here it is…
To get useful information when preparing your trip: Sardegna Turismo